Made of Nyuh Kuning
A couple of weeks ago, I had the opportunity to interview Made Sriasih, a woman who runs a small warung just a 30-second walk from where I live in Nyuh Kuning. She’s one of the kindest Indonesian women I’ve met during my time here.
I was interested in learning how villages operate, especially regarding ceremonies and leadership, so I decided to ask my partner, Kadek, for advice. When I mentioned Made, he was all for it. He explained that Made is the wife of the village leader and could provide a wealth of insight into how things work in Nyuh Kuning.
I was thrilled! For over a month, I’d been chatting with her in broken Indonesian, grabbing juice from her warung, and exchanging laughs—and I had no idea she played such an integral role in the village.
So, five minutes after deciding, Kadek and I walked over to her warung to ask if she’d be open to an interview. She happily said yes but explained that Kadek would need to translate since her English isn’t fluent.
The next day, I returned and spent two hours on the porch of her warung. Women from the village came and went, picking up items for offerings or fresh fruits and vegetables, while Made graciously shared her story with me.
Made moved to Nyuh Kuning in 1993 when she married her husband. She told me, “My husband has been the leader here for three years.” Leadership in the village is decided by election every five years, and she explained that her husband’s background as an accountant for over ten years made him a natural choice for the role.
“You cannot become leader of any village if you are not originally from the village,” she explained. As the leader’s wife, Made helps make important decisions for the community. “My husband comes to me with anything that is brought up amongst the people in this village, and we decide together on what the best thing to do would be.” Kadek calls them a ‘power couple,’ and watching their daily interactions with the villagers, it’s clear they’re well-loved and respected.
I was curious whether the leadership role would be inherited by one of her children, but she quickly laughed and said no. “The leader can only get voted in; it never gets passed on.” She added that her children—aged 14 and 23—have no interest in becoming village leaders anyway.
We spoke about how life in Bali has changed since she was a child. Made said, “Things are much different nowadays than when I was young.” She explained that children used to spend most of their time outdoors or helping their parents, and many even felt sorry for their parents because making money was much harder. But with the rise of tourism, kids today are more likely to want “more, more, and more”—from smartphones to the latest gadgets.
Made also shared how tourism has transformed the landscape of Bali. “Bali used to be all rice fields. Now most of the rice fields are actually gone—only a few remain. The rice fields have been replaced by villas and restaurants for tourists.” She described how traditional Balinese architecture is disappearing, even within family compounds, where modern, two-story buildings are now common.
When I asked how she feels about these changes, Made said, “I am happy about it. My village is now famous, and I like meeting new people from around the world.” Tourism has brought financial stability to her family, and it even allowed her to open her warung outside her home. “It is my hobby. I like to sell things and interact with my community in a different way.”
Her warung has become more than a business—it’s a hub for the community. Women gather there daily, catching up while picking up food for their families. Although some tourists stop by, the majority of her customers are locals.
One thing Made is especially grateful for is the local hospital nearby. “I am happy that [tourism] brought the woman from California here who founded the local hospital.” She explained that the hospital created jobs for villagers and provides free healthcare to everyone living in Nyuh Kuning. “Free healthcare is so important,” she added, especially since many locals don’t earn a lot of money.
Interviewing Made was such a lovely experience. I learned so much about her, her family, and the community of Nyuh Kuning.
At the end of our conversation, I asked why she agreed to the interview. She smiled and said, “Because you’re nice, and I like when you come buy juice.” Kadek told me she even gives me the local price because she thinks I’m “good people.” That simple comment warmed my heart, and as we hugged goodbye, I promised I’d probably see her later that day—because honestly, her juice is the best!
