S U R F

To surf is to feel the ocean accept you into her arms

Last Thursday I was given the opportunity to learn to surf! One of my co workers took me out to San Onofre or ‘Sano’ and we headed down Trail six. I was tired after opening at my job the morning before and then to wake up around 5am again was bloody hard. None the less, last Thursday morning I found myself scaling down a cliff the “fun and adventurous way” I believe is how my co worker described it. I am always down for the word adventure so there I was, on the side of this cliff balancing a long board on my head with my giant beach bag on my left shoulder trying to make my way down without plummeting to my doom. The view was incredible, once we made our way to the beach, landing on solid ground I gazed back up to where we initially started our journey and felt energized. I mean it was only 6:45 am and I had already scaled a cliff and was about to learn to surf, my day was off to a great start!

Devin knew that I am into SUP yoga, so he wasn’t afraid to just throw me into the water after a short mini lesson. Apparently surfing is like learning to ride a bike, the training wheels are not there for a long amount of time before your parent or in this case my co worker just throws you into the waves and takes the training wheels away from you. I have to say I would rather learn this way than to be given a long session of explanation prior to getting into the water, my attention span has a habit of getting away from me and wandering off.

Similar to a Stand Up Paddle board, it is important to keep the fin off of the sand, and once you’re about waist deep into the water you need to climb onto the board and begin to paddle. Now I am used to a wider board – one that I float on top of the water with – I am not immersed in the ocean whatsoever. Surf boards are not like that, they are much thinner and require you to find balance before you paddle, if you paddle with your body positioned in an awkward place then you will not get very far…trust me. After Devin told me that my chin should go right behind the logo on the board I was able to figure out how to position my body. You must paddle out quite a ways while battling the incoming white water, it was slightly concerning to me at first after getting knocked over the first time but after that it became almost second nature in how to work with the ocean and get over the waves without getting totally fucked up.

I began to find some connections with yoga and surfing. I noticed that when the white water was coming my way I could stabilize myself by going into Crocodile pose, similar to Up dog but with my toes tucked on the tail end of the board. I had a flashback to my Stoked Yogi SUP teacher training when one of the girls – Amber who was in training with me – would get up onto the board and sing ‘I am a little mermaid’. I began to visualize myself as Ariel as I went over the waves; it helped quite a bit!

Now when you are paddling over the white water you are expelling a lot of energy, it is important to notice when you need to reserve that energy and when you have to use it to propel yourself further out. Paddling requires you to know your body and its limits quite well. Once we got out a bit Devin said I could rest before we kept paddling, the sea was semi calm for about 5 minutes while Devin tried explaining to me how to turn and when I needed to start paddling to catch a wave. I also learned how to sit on the board, but when I tried sitting on my knees…whelp I fell right in! No surprise there folks.

Suddenly, after I fell a huge wave appeared and was coming quite fast. We were not going to catch it at all, he was stressing that I needed to hurry back onto my board and start paddling immediately. I tried my best but it was still my first time out there so I was behind him paddling as this wave was starting to tower over us, he was able to get over it but since I was behind him I knew it wasn’t going to be a breeze. I prepared myself for the wave but was startled when out of nowhere two dolphins appeared right in front of me. If I had reached out I could have touched them they were so close, I was with them watching them dance in the wave, mesmerized, and enthralled with them and this experience I was having. So much so I wasn’t paying attention and the wave killed me, not literally but I spent about 30 seconds or so getting fucked up by the wave and getting dragged around. As I popped back up Devin looked very concerned but all I had was a smile on my face laughing because the Dolphins were so amazing!! I couldn’t believe it, how close they were, how much they didn’t mind my presence, how they danced in front of me playing in the wave. It was all just beautiful, so beautiful. I paddled back out to him and told him I was fine and gave him the recap of my exciting moment with these dolphins and he just laughed at me, and was glad I came out alive. The wave was pretty intense I have to admit, if there weren’t dolphins I really don’t know how I would have felt after being dragged under.

Anyways, back to surfing! We paddled out a little bit further and Devin pushed me into my first wave, I had a little trouble knowing when to keep paddling and when I could stop but damn, I rode that baby in the whole way to shore, I was flying!! It was one of the best experiences I have ever had, that first wave. I knew as I got into shore I was hooked. The ocean already has my heart; I felt that the next step was naturally for me to be here, in this moment allowing her to let me experience this wave of emotion from surfing.

I paddled back out and as soon as I got out there Devin goes “I’ll see you in a bit” and then I look in front of me and notice that a huge wave was coming, I just paddled out further as Devin turned to catch the wave, I didn’t mind at all, it was awesome to watch someone who has been surfing since they were a kid catch a wave! I tried to watch every time he was going for a wave so I could understand his timing on when to paddle, and when to not. Learning as you go I have to say is the best way, because you are thrown into the experience fully, and can learn how everything works best for your body and the board!

As Devin caught another wave and rode in to grab the GoPro, I was wondering if I would be able to grab a wave and get one on my own. As I was out there floating with the ocean, just sitting and dangling my feet in the water I tried watching for the waves, anticipating when one would come and vibing with the ocean to get a good sense on what would be an indicator if the wave was going to be a big one or not. I thought I noticed a wave starting to form in the distance; I began to turn around because it takes me a little while to orient myself in the opposite direction. I started paddling immediately as the wave kept growing, and what do you know, there I was out of nowhere riding this awesome wave that I caught by myself, laughing of pure joy. Happiness engulfed me, and all I could wear was a smile. The experience of reading the ocean and being able to catch a wave on your own is so amazing. I was jumping up and down yelling to Devin “Did you see? Did you see that? I caught it!!! I did it!!” I was so happy in that moment and the happiness kept going for the next few hours. My friend Ashley came to join us and we all surfed together, we even caught a party wave! Good friends, good times, and lots of laughter. I felt so at peace, and so good, like really really good.

I didn’t stand up that day but I was able to belly down surf until 12 o’clock and caught a total of 5 waves. There is no concept of time when you are out on the water; I rather like it that way. What is time anyway, when all your worries are washed away by the ocean?

I encourage you all to try and surf. It may not be the exact same experience for you as it was for me, after all everyone is different. However, I can promise you that when you catch that first wave…your life will never be the same again.